Гюргево

Giurgiu is a border with a biography. Genoese merchants planted a trading colony here in the fourteenth century — the name is held to descend from their San Giorgio — and the Danube has run the town's affairs ever since: Wallachian port, Ottoman fortress-town, customs gate, and quarantine station on the road between Bucharest and the Balkans. The Ottoman centuries left the squat clock tower that still anchors the main square, and the nineteenth century added a distinction easily missed: the line from Bucharest to Giurgiu, opened in 1869, was the first railway built on Romanian soil, aimed — naturally — at the river.

Across that river lies Ruse, and since 1954 the two cities have been joined by the Friendship Bridge, for half a century the only bridge on the lower Danube between Romania and Bulgaria — a steel handshake more than two kilometres long, carrying road and rail above the barge traffic. The pairing defines Giurgiu: its opposite bank is another country, and neighbourliness is the local industry, from freight yards to cross-border shopping.

The town's cultural life runs on the modest, durable scale of the Danubian ports — a theatre named for the local playwright Tudor Vianu, choirs, school ensembles and festival visits — sustained, as the concert record confirms, by audiences who cross bridges for music. A Genoese name, a Turkish clock, a Romanian railway and a Bulgarian view: Giurgiu is the lower Danube in one town.