Austria's largest church, the neo-Gothic Mariendom, gives its square a west front more than a hundred metres high and a natural amphitheatre at its feet. Since 2011 the Domplatz has been cleared each summer for Klassik am Dom, an open-air series that began with orchestral and operatic evenings and has since taken in jazz, chanson and crossover; well over a hundred thousand listeners have sat there in the years since. The setting does half the work: stone above, sky behind, and a city that stops to listen.