In the Haßberge of Lower Franconia, Ebern has kept its medieval defences: a ring of wall, the Grauturm, gatehouses on the road towards Bamberg. Its castle courtyard turns stage in summer, with the audience on the cobbles and the walls throwing the sound back. Verdi carries well in such a space, and the open-air bills mounted here have leaned accordingly towards the broad Italian repertoire.